Extremely detailed - great model!
I am very happy with the Mills 36 model. The striker is stronger if printed on its side (long axis parallel to the printer bed) so that it is less likely to break at the notch when there is tension on the spoon. I love the version with casting irregularities. Authenticity could be added with manufacturer and date codes embedded in the base plug, and perhaps soften the outer edge of the filler plug.
Really good, I've printed a number now and they fit together fine and the dimensions are spot on with the original. The only mod I made was to edit the striker by lying the print down to give it more strength longitudinally as it prints end to end not top to bottom, but that was only me being fussy. I bought some pins & rings online cheaply, 3.2 mm dia split pins and 30mm dia key ring as per original and filled with sand to add some weight. Very happy and look forward to this authors next offering !!!!
Stunning replica of the No36m Mills Bomb!
Excellent Model.
I just printed it, its lovely.
And the slight offset for the two "casted" model halfs... Wonderful detail, I appreciate that very much.
One minor thing though:
The very bottom thread (I think its a M32x1,5) on the main body should not end with an internal chamfer after 7mm or so but go simply through over the entire length of ca. 12mm.
Keep up the great work mate.
Had a friend print 4, and they are very nice in the finish. I used both the standard body and the split cast body, and tried variation on bottom plugs and fill screws - all look the part perfectly.
DayDieCast, If you are tinkering with this file - as the 1st reviewer noted - if you leave the threads open all the way up (or extended them a couple of millimeters), it would allow the builder to make fuse assembly that would screw in.
Builders Note: Everything went together very well. I had some personal issues with detonator pins, which I chose to remake in styrene. Due to the print medium my friend used (which of course I don't the material notes here - but will edit up later), when the lever is placed under tension by placing the grenade pin into the body, the top of the detonator pin snapped off at the notch (and in one case, the safety lever snapped and had to be repaired). These are not complaints (I'm a lifelong plastic modeler - this is just part of making stuff), but things to be aware of when choosing your print material.
In summary - I'll be making more of these, because they are terrific.
